Reverse AppliqueReverse Applique
Posted by: Dena in Craft Projects on
Apr 29, 2009
For the past couple of months I’ve been making pillows, purses, and t-shirts with my new favorite technique: reverse appliqué. I’m not a technical sewer, so if you’re like me and you like quick projects that look great without the need for perfection, this will be a great project for you.
With traditional appliqué, small shapes are cut out of fabric and then stitched to the top of larger fabric, with little bitty stitches. It’s not exactly the quickest method to do by hand. That’s why I love reverse appliqué: the appliqué fabric is layered behind the ground fabric, stitched in place, and then the appliqué shape is created by cutting away the top layer of ground fabric to reveal what’s underneath. If you’ve never sewn a stitch in your life, I think you can have a lot of fun with this process. Here’s how I do it:
Above are two pillows and two tote bags that I made with my Snow Flower collection from Free Spirit Fabrics. Below is a bag I’m the process of embellishing with my newest Monaco collection for Free Spirit.
To start, choose how much fabric you will need for your project and lay the ground fabric out flat. I like to pencil in my shapes directly onto the canvas to mark where my stitching lines will be. Make sure you factor in ¼” of space between where you will cut out the shape, and where you will stitch.
Once you’ve got your design drawn out, pin the patterned fabric of your choice to the back of your ground fabric, making sure that the patterned side is facing the wrong side of your ground, right side to wrong side. This is because you will be cutting through the ground to show the patterns underneath.
Above is a photo of how the patterned fabric looks from behind when it has all been stitched in place.
Now that your fabric is pinned, you’ll be stitching along your pencil lines with a simple running stitch to join the two fabrics together. I use 3 strands of embroidery floss in coordinating colors. When you’re all done sewing around your shape, grab small sharp scissors and cut out the ground pattern (make sure you don’t cut through the patterned fabric beneath!) leaving a ¼” border between your stitch and cut lines. You can trim excess patterned fabric from the back as well. Easy, right?
If you feel comfortable with reverse appliqué, you don’t have to stitch on flat fabric and then sew that into something else - you can start with a finished item. It’s a big tougher sewing on something that already has a shape. For my Monaco bag that I’m still working on, pictured below, I just bought the canvas tote bag from J. Crew for $48 and it comes in different colors and is a great basic shape for reverse appliqué.
What do you think? If you end up trying this process, I would love to see what you come up with!
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